LONDON FASHION WEEK 2011: Fyodor Golan

Recent graduates from London's pregistous Instituto Marangoni and Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts, design duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have some impressive CVs. Previously working at Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons, Richard Nichol and Issey Miyake, the pair launched their joint label Fyodor Golan last year. The skills they have accumulated are evident on the catwalk: leather is sharply tailored into waves on jackets and skirts, while hard-line bodices are perfectly fitted with cut-out details. Leather is ubiquitous in this collection, etched with symbolic scarring like that of various tribal customs for beauty, status and decoration. In addition to African tribal tradition, legendary Greek goddesses were also cited as an influence, as elongated silhouettes created powerful and striking dresses towards the end of the collection. There were standout looks from the strong set of pieces, which included an ethereal high-necked dress with circular etchings and a soft leather train, and the final look: a bright navy panelled dress which continued the London Fashion Week trend for Issa-blue and sultry sky-high skirt slits. Although the overall impression was one of distinguished opulence, the constrainingly ruched ankle-length skirts added a sense of naivety to the Fyodor Golan woman, whose head sails high but whose feet must take tiny steps in order to walk. Their muse is a traveller and an explorer, battle-scarred and elegant, but to make this look work at home, try walking boots instead of elasticated leather.