'It's what we want to wear- it's not serious' said Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin of their iconic sixties design label- the focus of a dazzling new retrospective at the Fashion and Textiles Museum. Foale and Tuffin weren't your average design duo, after graduating from the Royal College of Art they shunned the then-current Paris couture trends in favour of simple construction and streamlined shapes. The retrospective boasts countless pieces from the pair, several of which wouldn't seem out of place in Topshop today, and the walls are dotted with angular sketches and more than a few Vogue shots.
As Cub wanders through the exhibition, accompanied by some classic sixties pop, it is clear that the label's success wasn't limited to the stunning dresses on show- the pair lent their name to Christmas cards, Sindy dolls, even designing the Queen's official mantle in 1960. The trademark 'Double D' linen shift dress most famously represents this link between pop-culture and the designs of the time, the pocket embroidered with the logo of Double Diamond Ale. The duo were at the heart of the sixties fashion explosion, pioneering colourful, pop-inspired miniskirts and revolutionary trouser-suits in a style world previously dominated by formal tradition. Simple, loose lace became an early signature, with peter-pan collars, cap sleeves and jersey fabrics ubiquitous on the rails.
As the label gained momentum, 21 Shop stocked a few fledgling F&T pieces including a frill front dress in grey flannel. It was this dress, displayed in the window, that was spotted by Claire Rendlesham of Vogue and shot by the now iconic fashion photographer David Bailey. Foale and Tuffin were a hit. They opened a workshop and boutique- both lovingly recreated in the exhibition- off stylish Carnaby Street, where they were free to establish their own line of dresses, jackets and skirts. Creating workwear-based, comfortable clothing in bright wool and jersey, taking inspiration from pop-culture and even borrowing styles from their boyfriends' wardrobes gained the duo recognition and admiration in fashion circles.
As the seventies arrived, the label was ahead of the curve, utilising the famous Thana Lawn Liberty prints and working with the renowned Zhandra Rhodes. The youthful, mini-skirted look moved towards more ethnic, sweeping designs, with textiles borrowed from Bernard Nevill and Susan Collier- the staple pieces became kaftans inspired by Tuffin's visits to Egypt. It was 1972 when the duo parted, towards successful creative solo careers in pottery design and knitting. The Fashion and Textiles Museum's sensational retrospective is a testament to the two designers, and their self-belief and trust in their work and each other. They didn't simply change the way that women wanted to dress, but continue to influence and inspire young designers today.
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